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HeHe, forgot this thing, to finsih my post... I agree with Tsinghua for some but I chose Nikon...

本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛For it's rugged construction, "professional-in-mind" design, superior lens quality, comprehensive accessories and most importantly, the interchangeability between the manual and auto focus lens, this one alone saves me a fortune. (OK, to be qualify a "serious" photographer, I got to have at least one manual system as backup, in case I'm running out of battery, or my electronic camera malfunction under extreme hot or cold weather etc, that’s really happens. For other brand this means I need two set of identical lens)

Lets talk about lens. Actually Pentax doesn't hold much ground when compared with Nikon. I've tracking the lens analysis report from different institution for years and my impression is that Nikon constantly hold a upper hand, especially in big aperture class, Like 80-200/2.8, 20-35/2.8, Nikon beat the Pentax dead down to the water. At 4.5-5.6 class small aperture lens they are equally poor. It was famous Nikkor lens that changed whole impression about Japanese camera when American journalist discovered that their cheap Nikkor lenses some how managed to produce better image than the million dollar Carl Zeise during the Korean war. Canon has some very good opticals, especially UMS serious has very good reputation among sports shooters. The draw back is that they use plastic lens mount on some of its cameras and lenses, those who got a Rebel can confirm this. Whatever Canon claim it is (they say it's an enforced carbon fiber or some thing) I just call it “plastic” and I can't put my trust on that. Beside, Canon doesn't appear to me has a full manual camera as yet.

What lens to chose then? Many people like to start with 28-80/ 4.5-5.6 zoom, I say it's not wide enough, not long enough and not fast enough… and usually they are cheaply made. Given a limited budget I would start build up my system with at least 24mm, it gives you reasonably wide angle and well-controlled distortion and vingeting. I prefer 24-50 rang over 24-80 because longer the zoom range the softer on tele end.

A lot of people ignore 50mm standard lens and went strait up to 80-210 range. Hold on my friend, what if you come to a situation that you need to take a indoor shoot with natural night (yes we all hate the flash light that just kills the atmosphere that we really like)? With you 4.5 lens it just doesn't cut, you can use the faster film but will suffer too much grain, what you need is a faster lens. What is the fastest lens you can get for around $100? 50mm/1.8 my friend, other wise you will spend thousands.

If you still have money left to burn, you would go for 135mm fixed focus portrait lens. Excellent for portraiture and perfect for medium-range candids or actions shots, such as capturing people across a room or across the street. The portraits have a quality that is difficult to describe but it is something that makes them look almost alive. Pros say it is because this lens is right on the boundary for flatness in a tele lens. I don't know.

You can settle with that for a while, When you get more money and really really really serious about the thing, It's time for a big gun, NikonAF80-200mm f/2.8D ED-IF. A fabulous toy, the world's fastest telephoto zoom lens, ideal for indoor sports photography and photojournalism in dim light. Pictures quality is fantastic, really sharp and crisp, and color reproduction is first class. Hey, just add a 2x tele-converter you have a 400mm/5.6 lens now, WOW, it's enough to shoot a lion on you next safari trip to Sarengattie.

Flash! Flash! I hate flash, you know that flat white face against dark background? But Nikon claimed that it has already been taking cared of. Their answer to the problem is an exposure control system called 3D Matrix Metering. That is when camera calculate the amount of light that needed for a subject using TTL, it's not only calculate the side that direct face the camera, it also calculate top and bottom, left and right. Coupled with same futured external flash unit, camera will send the control signal to the flash to sparkling the right amount of light. Thatss what I heard few years back and to be honest I never use flash.

What do I say about cameras in your list? They are too amateur, if you don't have a big budget right now (which I don't think so) just go for Nikon FM2 full manual system, You will gain tremendous from this one than those cheap toys, and like I said it's a good start point to build up your system. In the worst case if someday you feed up with these crap and decide to get ride of them, I tell you Nikon is a good name to invest, Nikon F2E my father bought 12 years ago now worth more than $500US, it was cost him $150US brand new. Just visit any used camera store old nikkor lens are still traded actively

Happy shooting my friend.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
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  • 枫下家园 / 生活杂事 / 谁对她有研究:35毫米 单镜头反光自动对焦照相机 35mm SLR AF
    本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛想从职业级傻瓜改行做专业级菜鸟。预算500 加币左右, 发现有如下选择。 不知道选那一个好。想听专家的意见。
    ==========================================
    Canon Rebel 2000 Kit w/EF 28~80mm Zoom Lens
    $579.00

    Canon Rebel G kit w/EF 28~80mm Zoom Lens
    $469.99

    ANON EOS 3000 W/28-80 NON,2-123,STRAP
    $430。00

    -------------------------------------------
    Minolta DYNAX 505si QD w/28-80mm Zoom Lens
    $469.00

    Minolta STsi Kit w/28~80mm Zoom Lens
    $469.99

    MINOLTA XTsi Body w/28-80mm Zoom Lens
    $569.99

    Minolta XTsi PQD w/28~80mm Zoom Lens
    $599.99

    --------------------------------------
    Nikon F60 Kit w/AF 28~80mm Zoom Lens
    $579.99
    Nikon F65 w/ 28 - 80
    $549.00

    --------------------------------------
    Pentax MZ-3QD Kit w/28-80mm Zoom Lens
    $799.00

    Pentax MZ-7QD Kit w/28-80mm Zoom Lens
    $579.99

    ------------------------------------更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
    • 我买的是Minolta STsi Kit w/28~80mm Zoom Lens,因为它有记录日期的功能
      • 瞧你懒成啥样, 多说几句评论。正等着你这样的专家呐。另外, 价格怎么样?鼓掌。。
        • 按不是专家
          如果你拍照片不是为了放大,用自动档就可以了,那种相机都差不多,当时买主要是因为它有日期功能,其他几个同档次的都没有,而且他还可以拍“宽银幕”,这边也可以洗,胶卷相机降价很慢,我当时买的时候$500,外加一个小包。
          不过我在摄影杂志上很难找到这种相机,估计不是主流产品,而且这种相机的镜头是62mm,如果以后想环镜头,也不是特方便。
          • 为什么用自动挡会影响照片质量?是自动测的数据不精确吗?
            • 马上你这个贴子就可以进入热门去了
              我以前见过一个不同胶卷质量的比较,在不放大的情况下,基本时一样的,区别在放大以后,这也是专业和业余的区别所在,你见过加里照相总去放大的吗?你见过影展不放大的吗?
              我理解专业摄影不一定会把焦距正好定在所要拍的物体上,同时,为了有意增大(或减少)景深,会和自动档选取的光圈速度有所不同。
              我从没参加过展览,不知道专业选手怎么看的。
        • tsinghua,请教,摄影方面我实在是大菜鸟,目前有EOS650,SIGMA35-80,如何开始一些入门练习?什么胶卷?请尽量详细些,多谢!
      • 还有, 外接闪光灯时,自动测光怎么能预先知道暴光量会加上闪光量?等闪光灯亮了才测光又来不及吧?
        • 哇,用那么专业吗?我的OLYMPUS IS-200单反全傻瓜就很好,28-110,自动补光,娱乐足够了,我还嫌它大了点呢! 以后要我再选,我宁可要OLYMPUS的娇小型号。 :-)
          • 我用的就是olympus娇小型, 防水全自动。另外还买了一个数码的柯达玩, 不过到现在也没拍过几张。
          • 你这个型号是不是手动/自动可切换的?标准镜头吗?
            • 不是的,是全傻瓜的,即完全自动。镜头非常好,好象叫什么“非球面镜头”,可以且只可以再加装一个镜头在现有的镜头之前,而不是可以拆卸原有镜头替换的那种,但20-110已经很不错了。当时买的时候3800人民币(MADE IN JAPAN)。
              • 笔误吧,不可能20-110。一个20mm的镜头可以买几个你的相机了。袖珍相机的长焦端因光圈太小,易因手抖导致图象模糊,到70就足够了。广角端一定要到28,拍大场面和风景非常有用。
                • 是28!你真是行家!
        • 外界闪光灯
          时,只和距离有关,而且一般闪光灯上都有不同的距离用何种光圈。速度必须低于一定的速度,否则照片可能只曝光一半。不知道现在的高级相机是不是没有这些限制了。
          我没买外接的闪光灯,实在不喜欢,用闪光灯找出来的纯粹是标准象,简单一句话,浪费胶卷。
          • 哦...........知道了
          • 赫赫如果有钱,还是买个闪光灯把。很多时候是必
            不可少的。另外使用的时候你可以按照当时的环境调整你的闪光灯的角度,在配合遮光罩。闪光灯难掌握但还是很重要的,最好在你买了相机一年以后,kill 了上百卷胶片后再买。那时候你自己也会清楚需要不需要了
            • 相机的电脑能不能知道装了闪光灯, 因而自动调节暴光量?
              • 当然了。带TTL功能的单反相机通过检测当快门打开,闪光灯发光时从底片表面反射的光强来计算暴光量,延长或缩短闪光灯的工作时间。
              • It depands what kind of flashgun you will buy.
                I am sure the camera you buy know can support an automatic flashgun, but it will cost you about 1/3 more for a auto one than a manul one. And my personal opinion is that it is worthless
    • 花了五百多美金买了我的Nikon N50. 三年多了, 还是把它当特大傻瓜机用. 很多好象很牛的功能都忘了怎么用了.
      • 哇!太浪费啦!太腐败啦!
    • Want to be a serious photographer? But how far you are willing to go?
      本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛Serious photographer has only one thing in their mind, PICTURE QUALITY, what makes a quality photo? Film and lens. When you want to get serious about Photography you have to think your gear as a system, that is, every thing is changeable according to different conditions, like lens, prism, view finders, focus screen, data back, grips, battery, flashes etc. etc…. And you also have to think about what out put you want use? You want use negative film to print on a photo paper? Or transparent that view by projector? Negative is popular for general family shooter, it’s tolerance for under or over exposure and those mistake s are easy to correct during finishing process, but sacrifice on sharpness and color saturation. Transparent film used almost exclusively bye professional photographers, publishing and advertising industries. It can reproduce a vivid color with unsurpassed details but requires some serious skills to control the exposure, But, film has nothing to do with the camera body it’s self so only thing you need to consider when you purchase a system is the lens, ..Gee , I have to take a dump… will be back.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
      • still on going? it must have been 2 kgs already....based on my budget, how serious do you think I can go? and which model is of the best value?
    • I am a specialist in camera and photograph and hope this is helpful.
      C and N got their famous by their professional camera. P is better in lenes and M's strength is new technology application. According to your budget and purpose(take pictures for MM?), I suggest you choose your gears in M's family.
      • 现在还记得MINOTA 2000在文汇报上的广告:但愿有一天, 世界上所有的相机都和美能达一样, 但目前仅此一家。
      • 你的评价不正确. P的镜头比不上N&C,N清晰锐利,C色彩鲜艳. 新技术M根本不行, C的镜身马达对焦驱动,眼控对焦已经出现多年了仍独步武林. 论到廉价的消费类产品,大家都差不多了,但还是N&C好一些
        • The professonal lenes of C and N are the best lenes from Japan.
          The N's lenes is sharper and the C's lenes is softer. You can choose your camera system according to your purposes and your like. But talking about the economic lenes, you shoud choose from other brands. N and C can sell their economic lenes by their brand name at high price and not so good quality, so why they don't do so. By the way, both C and N have their economic lenes produced in other countries, such as China. Actually I prefer lenses from German(I love the tone of picture taken by carl zeiss), but according to wjiang's budget, I still think M is his best choice.
          • 噢~~那我预算的这些相机套件中的28-80镜头估计是带厂名的非原厂品, 对吗?
            • 捡便宜的买一个吧,保证够你用的。
            • Yes. You can purchase a Tamron or a Tokino(the spelling maybe wrong) at the same price but with better performance.
    • Pentax MZ-3QD Kit w/28-80mm Zoom Lens $799.00,注意男孩要佩个电池合否则会觉得小了一点。pentax是在
      你列的机型中性价比最高的1/4000快门1/125的闪光同步......最值得称道的是镜头的质量和与自动/手动转换方式,可以满足初学者到业余发烧友的要求。如果你要多花1000多的话nikon,canon都不错。但你的这个价位上我还是推荐你用pentax其它的牌子高档得很好但中低档的就比不上pentax
      • 是呀。 大学时选了摄影课, 用的海鸥双镜头(名字忘了)和海鸥DF,后来一直用傻瓜机。目前无水平可言,将来争取到达专业菜鸟级。
        • 真菜鸟!那是海鸥4B(估计你那时也买不起4A).现成的专家在此,本人15年以前开始从10元钱的玩具相机玩起,到现在Canon EOS5 5点眼孔对焦+24-85&75-300IS图象稳定器+540EZ闪灯, 全套RMB12K左右. 不过现在我建议你买数码相机或摄象机,我看好canon S100, $700多
          • 再好的数码相机图片质量也是不能和胶卷相机相比的。如果玩的话,还是数字的好,我两个都有
            • 我现在80%的照相都是为了做网页或者发给亲朋,胶片相机的清晰优势显示不出来。数码又快又便宜又有后期制作的乐趣,一玩就上瘾。我的EOS5用的越来越少了。
          • 俺是一直手拿傻瓜机, 一边对身边的MM咽着涂沐解说专业机的牛比, 同时不忘将其他傻瓜机同仁贬得一文不值。
          • Glad to know someone like photography
            I will contact you after landing(the coming June) and hope we can go out together to take pictures. I began to take picture 20 years ago(I am older than you). My first camera was 35RMB(that was a large money at that time). Because I never throw away my cameras I have a Hongmei, Pear River, Seagull 4A, Seagull DF-1, Minolta-700, Nikonfm2 and Hassblad503. And I also have some "works" published in Chinese magzine and nps. By the way, do you think it's possible for me to earn my living by a photographer or a darkroom technican. Thanks for your reply.
            • 哇,大腕来了,本侠赶紧隐退... 我用过4B和X700. 我玩摄影是假的, 结婚以后就失去意义了. 这边风景真美, 苦于技术太烂, 正想找师傅学呐! 摄影这个行当我真是门外汉, 一点也不了解, 对不起.
            • Thank you very much for your information. I am not sure if there is career opportunity in pure photo shooting. However, HongKong guys run 婚杀摄影 here. Prices are much higher than in China
    • HeHe, forgot this thing, to finsih my post... I agree with Tsinghua for some but I chose Nikon...
      本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛For it's rugged construction, "professional-in-mind" design, superior lens quality, comprehensive accessories and most importantly, the interchangeability between the manual and auto focus lens, this one alone saves me a fortune. (OK, to be qualify a "serious" photographer, I got to have at least one manual system as backup, in case I'm running out of battery, or my electronic camera malfunction under extreme hot or cold weather etc, that’s really happens. For other brand this means I need two set of identical lens)

      Lets talk about lens. Actually Pentax doesn't hold much ground when compared with Nikon. I've tracking the lens analysis report from different institution for years and my impression is that Nikon constantly hold a upper hand, especially in big aperture class, Like 80-200/2.8, 20-35/2.8, Nikon beat the Pentax dead down to the water. At 4.5-5.6 class small aperture lens they are equally poor. It was famous Nikkor lens that changed whole impression about Japanese camera when American journalist discovered that their cheap Nikkor lenses some how managed to produce better image than the million dollar Carl Zeise during the Korean war. Canon has some very good opticals, especially UMS serious has very good reputation among sports shooters. The draw back is that they use plastic lens mount on some of its cameras and lenses, those who got a Rebel can confirm this. Whatever Canon claim it is (they say it's an enforced carbon fiber or some thing) I just call it “plastic” and I can't put my trust on that. Beside, Canon doesn't appear to me has a full manual camera as yet.

      What lens to chose then? Many people like to start with 28-80/ 4.5-5.6 zoom, I say it's not wide enough, not long enough and not fast enough… and usually they are cheaply made. Given a limited budget I would start build up my system with at least 24mm, it gives you reasonably wide angle and well-controlled distortion and vingeting. I prefer 24-50 rang over 24-80 because longer the zoom range the softer on tele end.

      A lot of people ignore 50mm standard lens and went strait up to 80-210 range. Hold on my friend, what if you come to a situation that you need to take a indoor shoot with natural night (yes we all hate the flash light that just kills the atmosphere that we really like)? With you 4.5 lens it just doesn't cut, you can use the faster film but will suffer too much grain, what you need is a faster lens. What is the fastest lens you can get for around $100? 50mm/1.8 my friend, other wise you will spend thousands.

      If you still have money left to burn, you would go for 135mm fixed focus portrait lens. Excellent for portraiture and perfect for medium-range candids or actions shots, such as capturing people across a room or across the street. The portraits have a quality that is difficult to describe but it is something that makes them look almost alive. Pros say it is because this lens is right on the boundary for flatness in a tele lens. I don't know.

      You can settle with that for a while, When you get more money and really really really serious about the thing, It's time for a big gun, NikonAF80-200mm f/2.8D ED-IF. A fabulous toy, the world's fastest telephoto zoom lens, ideal for indoor sports photography and photojournalism in dim light. Pictures quality is fantastic, really sharp and crisp, and color reproduction is first class. Hey, just add a 2x tele-converter you have a 400mm/5.6 lens now, WOW, it's enough to shoot a lion on you next safari trip to Sarengattie.

      Flash! Flash! I hate flash, you know that flat white face against dark background? But Nikon claimed that it has already been taking cared of. Their answer to the problem is an exposure control system called 3D Matrix Metering. That is when camera calculate the amount of light that needed for a subject using TTL, it's not only calculate the side that direct face the camera, it also calculate top and bottom, left and right. Coupled with same futured external flash unit, camera will send the control signal to the flash to sparkling the right amount of light. Thatss what I heard few years back and to be honest I never use flash.

      What do I say about cameras in your list? They are too amateur, if you don't have a big budget right now (which I don't think so) just go for Nikon FM2 full manual system, You will gain tremendous from this one than those cheap toys, and like I said it's a good start point to build up your system. In the worst case if someday you feed up with these crap and decide to get ride of them, I tell you Nikon is a good name to invest, Nikon F2E my father bought 12 years ago now worth more than $500US, it was cost him $150US brand new. Just visit any used camera store old nikkor lens are still traded actively

      Happy shooting my friend.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
      • 懂了几个要点:镜头,镜头, 还是镜头。 预算,预算,还是预算。
    • 选你用得着的功能, 轻便就行了,复杂的没用
      等你买了就会发现,是不是专业级的不一定看相机好不好.相机也是各有各的好处.如果只做菜鸟,只要有你要的功能,操作简便,轻巧就行了.镜头28-70(或80)的一般就够了(想拍特写,可以买长的,但需要三角架),闪光灯,三角架,快门线各一.(三角架要结实),还有球呀布的,买的东西还挺多的。

      另外给初学的小弟一点建议,

      1.专业摄影,不依赖自动曝光(不准),怎麽目测,需要看书和实践;(可以选择带测光的,但自己心中要有数)
      2用闪光灯有很多学问,最简单的是目测需要闪的距离,对照闪光灯后面的表,调整光圈,速度定在同步挡上(一般是1/125或1/60)或以下即可。
      3大师的作品是不标日期的,个人认为那些劳实子没有必要。
      4拿稳了,刚开始的时候会浪费一些胶卷,多练就好了。玩摄影钱烧得很快。
    • 建议选C或P——昨天就想发言,被牙医吓得没敢张嘴(牙医您老就别看此帖了,反正wjiang和挨过来炖之辈腐败爱烧钱,让我蒙蒙他们)。
      本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛看Rolia的这帮腐败家伙好几个月了,wjiang, 挨过来炖,硬的石盖,还有什么yellow啊就——黄,我就生气又痒痒!半年没找着工作,上的又是免费且限时的网,只干瞪眼能看着他们乐。这星期刚拿到offer,就准备也来凑热闹。看到wjiang问35mm SLR的专家,这不问到我饭碗里啦吗。嗯哼!啊,在下是光学专家,前几年高烧摄影。不料看到最后,竟还有Tsinghua、牙医这等高人,吓得立马下网睡觉。早上醒来心想牙医您老也太曲高和寡了,我们哪是玩儿到那份上的主,也就是结婚前哄MM,现在烧点小钱。我就来胡侃几句,被误导者责任自负。

      说到镜头,我完全赞成前面两老的宏论。一般的评价是对各厂的高端产品而言,我想日本五大厂的镜头排名顺序应该是:Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Olympus and Minolta. 相机这玩意儿虽不像计算机那么变化得快,但两年没了解行情,也实在是外行了。Wjiang单子上的东西,我一个也不知道。我当年玩的主要是手动调焦产品,买之前看好的是Canon,后来玩了一阵朋友的Minolta XD7,镜头是该厂的代表作35-135mm,于是对美能达钟爱有加,无赖囊中羞涩,最后买的是X300和28-70mm(f3.5-4.8),Vivita_No.1 70-210mm(f2.8-4)。用那28-70头,我拍的天空从来没蓝过,总是偏紫红。后来玩过单位的一些高档货,总的感觉是价格说明一切,而且此等玩意儿和玩Hi-Fi一样,没有性价比一说,你脑袋又多烧,就烧多少钱。外行怎么比,你就看谁的光圈大,看看说明书,谁的透镜组、片数多,有没有用超低色散玻璃(一般镜身上有一红环)。对于中低档产品,倒是各家有各家的特点。说专业一点,就是在剩余像差平衡上,各有哄人的招。有的是牺牲一些大光圈的像质,而在f8-11时性能极佳;Minolta牺牲高阶球差和色差,结果是是明锐度和色彩还原不行,但其分辨率很好(我老婆脸上的疵病清晰可辨);Canon主要保留初级球差,成像偏软,但锐度和色彩还原均不错,拍肖像胜于拍风景;杂牌厂商的头多半是光圈很小而且边缘视场畸变大。原厂机身配其他头,似乎是前几年烧友流行的事,但腾龙和图丽的宝贝儿价格也不菲。在现在AF头为主的行市里,好像是西格马(sigma?)领风骚吧。

      专家的玩法其实是另一码事。所有的自动功能对我等菜鸟级、傻瓜级水平是方便又省事,对他们都是妨碍。那一瞬间的职业敏感(新闻摄影)和创作灵感(艺术摄影)中,一系列娴熟的机械动作不会干扰他们的思维,但那些自动功能的设置恐怕要坏事,眼球对焦模式也判断不了他们老人家的艺术眼光。新华社名记唐师增玩的是Leica,固定镜头、平视取景的那种(样子很土,但价格吓死你!),青年报的王文扬是一台尼康F3加一台FM2(牙医老人家肯定赞成这么配),只有牛群这种称钱又招摇的主才会扛俩F4。布列松老人家用莱卡,功夫全在按下快门一刹那,后期绝不裁剪画面;亚当斯老人家架上柯达大家伙,手持曝光表蹲在黄石公园里,等待阳光最佳的一瞬间;我们这位Tsinghua老人家玩儿的是‘好死不赖得’—CarlZeiss头哩(^_^)……wjiang您老大概不会走那么远的,和我差不多,我看还是买canon或pantax吧。

      机身也还是有些小讲究的。既然发烧就得少点内容吧,比拍MM在瀑布前,1/4000秒就用得着了,那珠帘翠玉的感觉保准让MM看了开心。但wjiang你的家伙如果最大光圈只有F4.5,也就省了这份心。快门的震动要小,牙医等老鸟的确是都不用闪光灯的,手端1/15秒是入门的功夫,这时候快门振动是有影响的。钢链的快门振动就比布帘小,canon的反光镜抬升动作极轻巧。
      还有给MM来张侧逆光,最能体现你的高超技巧。但如果闪光同步速度不是小于1/90,你就等着她奚落吧。俺当年是用自制的反光板补光,是不更那么像回事儿。

      我将要去上班的ELCAN公司,是Leica的北美生产商,应该比原厂的便宜点吧,可面试我的设计部经理说他买不起,我也就懒得多问了。要是像我原来的单位,发不出奖金就发相机该多好,我以前多的还送亲戚朋友哩。

      我现在感兴趣的是数字相机,欢迎同好切磋。目前看好的是:
      1. Kodak DC4800, 3.3Meg, 3x_optic, $750;
      2. Olympus C211, 2.1Meg, 10X_optical, $1170;
      3. Canon Pro 90 I.S., 3.34Meg, 10X_optical, $1600.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
      • 中间镜头拿段, 看了3遍才领略个大概。 真是专家。 我提问前, 还以为自己是专家(在国内时,说过几次专业机的好,没人理我)。想不到有这么多高手。谢谢。
        • 你也就是一个贾宝玉--意淫的主儿。快点动手买吧,夏天来了!
          • 那么多高手,我也就缩回我的小手吧。ANYWAY,这次我会带上我的老爷CANON EOS 650,哪位愿意指教?
            • 弱智问题: EGG的EOS 5 和你的 EOS 650哪一个更牛?
              • EOS5 is much better than 650. The difference is as big as, if not larger t Legent and Civic from Honda.
      • whitewolf ,你所写的价钱是税前还是税后的?如果是税前的话好象贵了点,说不定我可提供比这便宜的,呵呵.
        • 我是看一个叫Henry's的店的广告,税前价。请告知你了解的信息。
          • 我这的价格为:
            1. Kodak DC4800, $550;
            2. Olympus C211, $??; 没找到此型号
            3. Canon Pro 90 I.S., $1600.

            以上均为税后价格(加元),只不过我说的不是多伦多价格.如果真有意买的话,可能可以帮你带一个 : )
            • 真的是便宜好多,我暂时还没拿定主意,因为还没到商店看一眼真正的东西,纸上谈兵,见笑。
              • 哪里哪里,老实说,你所说还都是比较贵的几种,
                我刚买了个NIKON COOLPIX 880 的整套,约$450吧.
    • tsinghua,请教,摄影方面我实在是大菜鸟,目前有EOS650,SIGMA35-80,如何开始一些入门练习?什么胶卷?请尽量详细些,多谢!
      • EOS650是自动过片的对吧,你只管按快门就是了。其实大师最牛的地方就是杀卷杀得快,两名助手填卷都来不及。你想找师傅?——先练装卷。
      • It is easy to take pictures with modern cameras, but it is very difficult to take good pictures.
        Your gears is enough for a beginner. Because your lenses's apeature is not large(f3.5/4.5?), I suggest you load ISO200 films. I usually use Kodaka. Most people begin with negative films but I strongly recommand you try some slides(EPP or EPR).
        A lot of friends care too much about cameras and films. Ideas is more important actually. There were Masters 100 years ago and I am sure our gears is much advanced than them. There are three key factors to be a success photographer, the first one is talent , the second is loving and the third is practice.
        Hope you enjoy it
        • Thanks a lot! could you please recommend some sites for both English and Chinese about that.
          • I ususlly use Ektachrome 100 plus from Kodaka(EPP) and sometimes I also exposed EPR(ISO64) from K.
            But one of my friends like Provia from Fuji (this film is a bit bright). The films from Agfa is also good. You can try all of them until you find one you like and then keeping use it to get familiar with its preperties.
    • 问一个价格问题 我只是想照相留念,想买一个全制动傻瓜能伸缩镜头的那总,大陆买1000RMB左右,在加国是不是更便宜一些,还是应该在国内买?